Three Perfect Days in New Orleans

   ​New Orleans is a city of culture, history, and fun, but unfortunately tends to be known more for "fun" and attracts more than its share of people looking to get sloshed on Bourbon Street or press together for Mardi Gras.
     My wife and I flew down in late March, in between crowded and before the hot weather sets in, and spent three relaxing days exploring its sights, sounds, and flavors with my friends. Like many urban areas hit hard by economic shutdowns and violence during Covid, I was saddened to learn that even locals we a little leary about walking the streets due to the increase in crime. But though the Vieux Carre looked a little more "vieux" than it had on my previous visit, we felt safe and enjoyed the weather and going to some new places. Here’s what we did and what we loved.
Day 1: A World War II Museum and a Live Music Pub Crawl
We started our day with a quick breakfast at the new Virgin Hotel (a fun and trendy place to stay, if you've never been to one), before heading to the National WWII Museum, which we'd never been to before. This museum is huge and impressive, with exhibits covering every aspect of the war, from the home front to the battlefront. We learned a lot about the history and the heroes of WWII, and saw some amazing artifacts and vehicles. The experience is fascinating, but also leaves you with a heavy weight, thinking all of the loss and sacrifice around the world at the time, fighting territorial ambitions of powerful leaders.
     For lunch, we ate at Herbsaint Bar & Restaurant, a cozy spot with a French-inspired menu. We shared some delicious dishes like shrimp and grits, duck confit, and roasted chicken. The service was friendly and attentive, and the atmosphere was relaxed and elegant. We strolled the streets, making our way to Elizabeth St. Cafe at Hotel St. Vincent, a chic bar with a tropical vibe in a recently restored old hotel space. We enjoyed some cocktails and snacks on the patio, surrounded by lush plants and colorful decor. The drinks were refreshing and creative, like the Hibiscus Margarita and the Coconut Mojito.
     For dinner, we went to Meril, one of Emeril Lagasse's newer restaurants that I chose because my wife had never been to one. It was full of noisy business groups, tourists with kids and people celebrating a birthday there so they could get the special cotton candy and fountain sparkler dessert. Afterwards, we joined a live music pub crawl hosted by Quay (on AirBnB Experiences), a local musician and guide. Our hostess took us to some of the more seedy but fun, off-the-beaten path bars east and north of Esplanade Ave. on Frenchman St., where we listened to different genres of music, from jazz to blues to rock. We met some friendly locals and other travelers, and danced in the street to the music inside some of the more crowded places. Some of the highlights were Dragon’s Den, where we saw a funky brass band; Maison, where we watched a soulful singer; and Blue Nile, where we grooved to a reggae band.

Day 2: A Brunch with Peacocks and a Scavenger Hunt on Magazine Street
     We woke up late and hungry, so we headed to Peacock Room at Hotel Fontenac for brunch. This place is stunning, with a glass ceiling, chandeliers, and peacocks roaming around. The food was equally impressive, with dishes like eggs Benedict, French toast, and shrimp and grits. We also had some mimosas and Bloody Marys to start the day right.
     After brunch, we took an Uber to Magazine Street, a long stretch of shops, cafes, galleries, and boutiques. We walked, shopped and ate along the way at Shaya, Riverboat Coffee, Coquette, and Saint John. For dinner, we had a reservation at Restaurant August, one of the finest restaurants in the city. The chef is John Besh, a famous New Orleans native who creates modern dishes with local ingredients. We opted for the tasting menu with wine pairings, which was a culinary adventure. Some of the dishes we had were oysters with caviar, foie gras with figs, lamb with eggplant, and chocolate cake with caramel.
     After dinner, we were on our way to Arnaud’s Jazz Bistro, a historic landmark that dates back to 1918. But an Uber driver gave us a tip that John Marsalis of the Marsalis brothers, would be playing at the Ponchatrain Hotel's bar that night. So we snagged a table for no cover (typical in New Orleans, surprisingly) in the tiny moody bar that has a classy and cozy ambiance with small tables and dim lighting. Too good! 

Day 3: A Tour of the French Quarter and a Visit to City Park
     We started our last day with brunch at a favorite indulgent bakery spot from my pre-Covid visit, Willa Jean. We had their signature dishes like the giant banana bread, fried chicken with tabasoo honey, and a token "healthy" grain boal with fancy grains and vegetables. There was no room left for the multi-layered coconut cake.
     After brunch, we walked the French Quarter, looking for special "foodie" landmarks that offer famous sandwiches and pralines in search of the best-of, conspicuously avoiding Bourbon Street. We then took a quick Uber to City Park, a large and beautiful park with many attractions and activities that feels completely different and remote from the rest of the city, except for the Cafe du Mondo location that is so quick and easy to get into versus the French Quarter version. We walked to the sculpture garden, where we saw some amazing artworks by local and international artists, such as a giant spider, a flying horse, and a twisted tree. We also explored the botanical garden, where we admired the variety and beauty of the plants and flowers, such as roses, orchids, and cacti inside the glass conservatory and other interesting buildings. 
     For happy hour, we went to Restaurant R’evolution, a sophisticated, luxurious restaurant with a creative menu and a stunning bar. We had some cocktails and appetizers, particularly the unique though costly (less so at happy hour) Caviar Flight, served with impeccable and attentive hospitality. For dinner, we had a reservation at Bayona, a cozy restaurant with a Mediterranean-inspired menu that's been a staple for decades. We shared some dishes like the smoked duck salad, the grilled lamb loin, the seared scallops, and the chocolate hazelnut cake. The food was delicious and satisfying, and the service was warm and attentive.
     Up early the next day for a direct (!) flight home to northwest Arkansas on JetBlue for less per ticket than any of our meals during our visit.