Fri, 17 Jan 2025 18:24:25 -0600WeeblyMon, 15 Jul 2024 05:00:00 GMThttp://trendwolf.org/trendwolftravels/6-perfect-days-in-southern-spainNow that locals in Barcelona are using water pistols to make it clear that tourists are no longer welcome to come spend money in their popular city, it's time to look elsewhere for a taste of Spain. 
    May I suggest the Andalusia region, easily accessible from the US via a flight to and from Madrid? From this central city (which has a few things worth visiting), you can easily take a train or drive to my favorite of all -- Granada (Spanish for 'pomegranate') -- and use that as a hub or drive in a circle, covering Cordoba, Seville, Ronda, and Malaga. Seville and Malaga are much larger and more urban feeling than Granada, but that's exactly why I would use Granada as a central place, or a least to spend more time there immersing myself in the food, architecture and culture. This whole area stands apart from the rest of Spain for its Moorish history and heavy Arabic culture and architectural influences.  
     Granada Highlights: Last year, we only allowed a day to try and visit the Alhambra palace AND the city of Granada, and boy was that a mistake. Our food tour guide, a Food Sherpa, nearly cried and insisted on hand-writing us a list of at least 25 more sites to see on our next visit. So what did we do? Nine months later we scheduled another trip to Europe to include more of the region that we'd missed before. Turns out, Granada is THE city for tapas, not necessarily because they're better than any other city, but because they're FREE! Order a drink at a high-top table or the bar (NOT the clothed tables with place settings), and a tapa of the day will magically arrive a few minutes later. Then there's the Alcaiceria near the main cathedral, Granada's "bazaar" where one can find all kinds of spices, trinkets, leather goods and foods. And even if you don't manage to book an official Alhambra tour ahead of time, the truth is you can see a good portion of it by walking around the palace's perimeter and exploring the public places. But what I like most is just the overall charm of the city, which is bustling but doesn't (yet) feel over-touristed. For breakfast and people-watching, have some churros and hot chocolate in the Gran Cafe Bib-Rambla.  
     Seville Highlights: This, too, is a good place for a tapas tour, but you don't get any freebies. Try the more local-imbibed Vin Tinto instead of the touristy Sangria, or a glass of Rioja, Albarino, or Tempranillo. And get a ticket at the cathedral that lets you walk the same ramps inside the tower that a donkey used to take the bell ringer up to every day. Sneak inside the Hotel Alfonzo XIII for an old world glimpse of luxury life in the lobby and common areas. Save time to tour the Gardens and Palace of the Real Alcazar. And if you have time, taxi over to the Plaza de Espana near sunset, where everyone seems to take their families to enjoy time at the park. 
     Cordoba & Ronda Highlights: These are two historic cities with famous palaces, bridges, and cathedrals of their own, along with good tapas and people watching. Both are worthy of a couple of days each, but can be covered on day trips to see the main sites. Tour guides are always helpful, and I personally prefer to find aspiring local guides via AirBnb or Viator that mix in a food tour when possible, to save me research time and money. Consistently, I've found professional guides and drivers to be expensive and overqualified for what I'm looking for. Here is where I will also mention a number of "castle towns" dotting the countryside that looked worth a stop if I had a car or driver, but just had to gawk from the train car. 
     Malaga and Madrid Highlights: If it were up to me, I wouldn't suggest going out of one's way to make a stop in Malaga. Yes, Picasso was born here, and there are some interesting cathedrals, tropical parks and shopping streets, but I found this port city to feel too urban and run down in places compared to the other ones mentioned above. The rundown train station with only a hidden bathroom in the basement parking garage was enough to make me want to hop the train back to Granada. But a tapas tour revealed a lot of tasty foods and drinks somewhat unique to this region. And Madrid, which is mostly a "new" city (according to a Granada native), has a palace, park, and somewhat-old-town worth half a day before flying out, and a city park within walking distance of the train station with endless paths and a pond that locals use to hang out around or row a boat in on lazy days. 
     Unfortunately back in the 80s, I chose to study the French language as a means to travel to France. But the French would rather speak English to tourists rather than put up with their attempts to speak their language, so that was a waste of time. Instead, I wish I'd studied Spanish, not only to help me navigate a growing part of the US and its citizens, but also to help unlock a country that keeps growing on my every time I visit, and locals who keep giving me more reasons to return. 
]]>Mon, 01 Jul 2024 05:00:00 GMThttp://trendwolf.org/trendwolftravels/3-perfect-days-in-lake-comoFirst of all, of course three days isn't enough time to enjoy the Lake Como area of northern Italy! But sometimes a few days is all someone has for a long weekend or as a tag-on to another trip, so here are some thoughts about how to at least get a "taste" of the region and decide whether a longer return visit is worth making. 
     For our first trip in late June, we were breaking one of my cardinal rules of travel: don't go to Europe (or anywhere, really, if you can help it) in June-July-August. That's because not only is it typically hot, but everyone else in the world is traveling to Europe for summer break/vacation, so it's hot AND crowded, a very bad combination for trying to enjoy oneself. But somehow, we managed to enjoy ourselves for the most part (and save some money) by doing a few strategic things despite visiting Lake Como in prime tourist season:
    1) Don't stay in Como (or Bellagio). Como is pretty much the southernmost entrance point and closest city to Milan, so you may get there and get settled in faster than staying in other places, but if you want to explore the lakes you will spend a LOT of time taking crowded ferries from way down there up to the popular areas like Tremezzo, Bellagio and Varenna. Sure, part of the fun of exploring the area is taking a boat on the lake to see all the towns, but it won't feel so charming when you're facing another two-hour ride home to Como from your day visit to Varenna. Yes, there are some fast ferries that help cut down that ride, but if you don't read the schedules carefully or manage to get on those, it's a tedious ride home on a hot, crowded ferry. Ditto with Bellagio: it's further up the lake and therefore reduces ferry travel time, but because it's a popular town, it's crowded with tourists all day long and not a very fun place to make as your home base, IMHO. 
     2) Don't stay in a hotel. Actually there are several hotels in the area that would have been very nice to stay in, IF I had wanted to pay $400 a night. But hotels are crowded, almost none of them have parking available even for guests, and you'll have to pay extra to hope for a lake-facing room. Instead, look up the many AirBnb options in the area that have patios, bedrooms and living rooms with amazing lake-facing views, either right on the water or just up the hillside. We stayed at a rustic place in a tiny town called Sala Comacina (on the west side of the lakes), that was steps from a ferry terminal, as well as in a town full of small, friendly butcher shops, bakeries and restaurants.
     A highlight of the trip was buying groceries each day and chatting in broken Italian with the local merchants, who seemed to appreciate foreign visitors who had chosen to stay here instead of the bigger cities. The best part, though, was that it never felt crowded. This was just a sleepy little fishing town with quick ferry access to all the more popular ports across the water. And I was easily able to book my choice of many places just a month ahead of time for less than $200 a night. My host was also happy to recommend and book restaurants and help with other necessities. 
     3) Don't expect to drive a car around. Truth be told, I rented a car from the Venice airport where we landed (not a fun experience), mainly because we were on a time crunch to get to a cruise port following our brief Como stay. But I parked it and never drove it until we left. So if you do rent a car, be sure the place you're staying has a guaranteed parking space, or you'll be in a big pickle (as I mentioned above, most of the hotels don't have parking spaces available even for their paying guests, and street parking is rare). And if you rent a car, be ready to navigate the VERY narrow streets along the lake, which are just barely two cars wide and are fraught with lots of obstacles (especially pedestrians who have no sidewalks available) along the way. 
     And if you don't rent a car, then you can easily take a train out of Milan to a town like Varenna on the east side of the lakes, where AirBnb stays are within steps or a short cab ride (or a pick up from your AirBnb host) away. Training up the extra distance from the bottom of the lakes only takes a little longer than a train to Como, and will pay off in shorter ferry rides and a more relaxing stay during your visit.   
     4) Do visit the many gardens, palaces and castles in the area. At the end of the day, all the towns feel the same whether jockeying to eat at a restaurant, board a ferry, or buy a souvenir in Como, Bellagio, Varenna, Tremezzo, or any of the other popular ferry stops. But what helped us avoid/escape the crowds and REALLY get well-framed (i.e., Instagram-worthy) photos was a small entry fee to gain access to some historic and beautifully maintained gardens including Villa Carlotta in Tremezzo, Villa del Balbianello in Lenno (where Padme and Anakin secretly got married in Star Wars), Villa Serbelloni in Bellagio, and Castello di Vezio or Villa Cipressi in Varenna.
     If you can climb the long hill to the Castello in Varenna to get a sweeping view of all the lakes at once and check out a really cool medieval castle and dungeon, be sure to take the hidden street Via Alla Riva straight up the hill from the ferry terminal (and to the left of restaurant Locanda Cavallino) instead of the more popular path that cuts to the right through town and takes the much longer and is a more difficult path to get to the castle. Bonus: there is a cafe just outside the castle with reasonably priced bottles of water and refreshments to enjoy on either side of the journey! 
     5) Do consider hiring a private boat to take you around the lakes on your first day. There are many options available on AirBnb or by searching directly online (to save the fees the apps charge). It's not cheap, but with the money you save NOT staying at a hotel, you can afford this private tour with champagne and tips from a local. For an added bonus, have them drop you off at a dock in one of the towns you want to visit to save you an extra trip to get there by ferry. Instead of starting and ending at the standard location, we had our driver pick us up just outside our rented place and drop us off in a quiet place at the far end of the gardens in Bellagio to allow us a one-way tour of the Serbelloni gardens. Felt very VIP. ]]>Mon, 22 Apr 2024 05:00:00 GMThttp://trendwolf.org/trendwolftravels/what-i-would-do-differently-next-time-we-travel-in-europeIt was our 30th wedding anniversary last year and we decided to spend three weeks touring wine country in France and the Algarve area of Spain. I initially did the planning through a travel agent, but slowly started taking over specific elements of the trip as the process moved along. What would do differently or avoid next time:

• INSURANCE: Post-Covid world, I'm a big believer in insurance in case something inevitably goes wrong in today's increasingly volatile world. BUT, before you give in to pressure from insurance offers or travel agents, check your benefits on your credit cards to see if they automatically offer travel insurance for things you charge to the card - like cruises, airline tickets, hotels, etc. I bought insurance for this trip, but now realize my Chase Sapphire Preferred card offered up to $30K of reimbursement coverage, plus medical, etc. Same goes for car insurance. I learned that France requires rental car companies to build in the collision insurance into the price so it's automatic and doesn't need supplementary coverage, despite all the options offered in the booking process. 
• TRAINS vs. CARS: Car rental gives much more control but brings a huge expense (gas, tolls, risk, rental), along with the stress of driving with different signs, speeding rules, etc., so I would only do it for a few days or critical places when train coverage isn't practical.
• CARS IN FRANCE: If I had to go it again, I would still prefer to rent a car to see all the wine regions in the way we did, especially the Dordogne region (full of 'the most beautiful villages in France'). But it would have also been possible to take trains to many of these locations and hire a driver to pick us up and take us places as well. 
• TRAINS IN SPAIN: Avoid Renfre in Spain if you can when booking tickets. It's dowdy even in first class. Don’t book morning excursions (e.g., Airbnb or Viator experiences) on the other end of a day-train ride in case the train is late - which it probably will be. Think twice about a day trip (especially those with connections) that relies on train travel - think day driver instead. Research better choices of train brands, try to book seats together, beware of backward facing seats in the configurations unless you like sitting across from your partner and have a table between you for cardplaying, eating, etc. 
• CHAUFFEUR DRIVERS: Though more expensive, they can be a better choice than trains or car rentals if you're willing to "pay for" less stress and bickering with your travel companion. Reserving them to pick you up at your hotel is wonderful for visiting chateaux, villages, or navigating tricky roads in the area. Pick up at, or delivery to, the airport is nice to kick off and end a trip, especially for early morning flights to go home. Arranging for pick up when arriving at a train station is mostly not necessary, however, if Uber is present in the city you're traveling to. 
• HOTEL FEES: European hotel prices often include a pre-paid breakfast. But you don't want to get locked into paying the extra $20-30 on those mornings where you have an early event / excursion that starts before 9 am. You will have no time to sit down and eat your money's worth, if the restaurant is even open. Instead, find a cafe/bakery near the hotel where you can pick up a quick breakfast and coffee. Also avoid full pre-pay and nonrefundable hotels if at all possible; go for deposits only. Be warned that there typically are no true "King" beds in Europe: they are actually two twin beds pushed together and you will feel the seams in the middle. Ask instead for a queen or double bed and cosy up.  
• PACKING: Traveling in two very different temperature zones forced us to pack more and then carry it around unused for a week; reconsider "variety" when possible, opting for a few layer able things that don't wrinkle easily but do coordinate. Beyond the obvious, take an extra compact-able gym bag for carrying extras at end that won't fit in your suitcase that arrived full. Take rubber bands and plastic baggies for miscellaneous needs. Take constipation and diarrhea medicine for the unexpected to save trips to the pharmacy for unfamiliar medicines. 
• ARRIVAL DAYS: Whether for international landing day or transfer to a nearby city, don’t plan any thing on first arrival day (or even next morning) in case a flight is delayed; on arrival day, possibly stay in the down you land in, or somewhere that's just a short drive or train trip nearby area to give you time to adjust. Even if you manage to sleep a few hours on the flight, you're still exhausted and disoriented, so if you must rent a car (which I always seem to need), plan to drive no more than 2 hours the first day, for safety and sanity reasons. I keep ignoring my own advice and regret it every time as I drive bleary-eyed down an unfamiliar freeway in a different language and different driving culture. 
• EXCURSIONS: Drivers and guides are very worth it for extensive palace or cathedral tours and visiting hard-to-reach locations that require advance ticketing or planning. But for most sites, including wineries and simple city or food tours, you are better off booking an Airbnb Experience or Viator reservation which costs $15 - $200 vs $400-600 for the travel-agent-sourced professionals. 
• TRAVEL AGENTS: Speaking of... If you simply don't have time or interest, travel agents' expertise in connecting transportation, hotels, guides and drivers is very worth it, as they can assemble day-by-day itineraries and appointments that hook you up with reliable, experienced people that the typical Internet search won't yield (as far as I know). But overall, I felt this was an expensive and sometimes unnecessary luxury: increasingly, airlines are making it almost impossible for travel agencies to find the best tickets, and the hotel choices I was given seldom appealed to me, so I ended up searching and passing along recommendations myself. I did like the all-in-one itinerary that put all my details and digital documents in one place, but when it comes to fixing snags, it’s hard to get help from a distance when there is a 6-7 hour time difference. And getting money back from the travel agent or their partner agents for booking changes or no shows that should have yielded a refund seems to be almost impossible, similar to my experience with getting a settlement from my travel insurance company years ago due to extended luggage delays.
• PACING: Two-night stays in a place and day trips to some places worked okay but limited our ability to really see an area (Bordeaux, Dordogne, Cordoba, Granada); as a “taste” it was fine but as always, I prefer to pick an area and stay in it for a few days. Three or four "events" (ie, chateau tours) CAN BE DONE in one day but are exhausting. For me, only one event a day is a bit of a waste if you're only in a place for a day or two. But two a day (one in morning and one in afternoon) feels just right overall. That said, a “free day” every few days to just aimlessly wander around a city or shop are nice, too. And on the first day’s arrival at a new city, I always try to book a very “light” walking tour or food tour to serve as introduction, and isn't an expensive loss if a transportation delay causes us to cancel or miss it. Many will understandingly rebook if you have time. 
• ELECTRONICS: Turns out for most countries in Europe, we did not need a traditional heavy 110/220 converter; just a multi-pronged adapter plug that has USB charging outlets and a normal plug that can convert 220 volts to 110. In terms of international calling plans on a cell phone, we were able to live on keeping only one phone on cell service with a $10 a day charge to help us navigate, while my spouse's phone stayed in Airplane mode and she used only wifi and my personal hot spot connection occasionally. Of course, this only works if you don't split up to go shopping, etc., but we stayed together most of the time and used my phone for searching and calling away from the hotel. 

]]>Sun, 24 Mar 2024 21:34:37 GMThttp://trendwolf.org/trendwolftravels/pro-tips-for-infrequent-travelersI've logged 3+million miles over the past few decades just on American Airlines alone! Along the way, I've figured out ways to minimize suffering, surprise and discomfort in travel planning and execution. It will take more work pre-flight, but will save stress, confusion and wasted time searching while still providing flexibility. 

• Reservations: make flight, hotel and car reservations early - check car and hotel closer to time to see if rates have changed. Avoid pre-pay hotels and car reservations in case of cancellations, to minimize 
• Give an extra day for arrival if any "events" or important reservations - in case of cancellations and delays - especially for overseas or "super special" events (like weddings, etc.). Also, pre-think potential alternatives - like different departing airports, connecting cities, airlines, or cars instead of planes, etc., so you're not caught by surprise when there's a major upheaval. 
• Make dinner reservations on OpenTable, Resy or The Fork (Europe) before leaving town - you can always cancel last minute if you make a new discovery and want to change plans (avoid cancellation penalties in these apps unless you're absolutely positive you won't need to cancel or change). 
• Search Travelocity (or similar) for flight/hotel inspiration - book direct for peace of mind that your reservation goes through. This also comes in handy if you run into a snag and need to change or cancel something. Increasingly, companies are referring people to the booking source if it's a "third party" booking. Airlines are starting to get more restrictive on ticket features booked through third parties. 
• Look at Airbnb for culinary and other tour "experiences" to get to know a city on foot or by bike. There are also other companies like Viator, etc. that offer bookings. 
• Avoid connecting times on flights less than an hour - taxiing, debarking, and other delays will compress that window - leaving little time for getting to gates, stopping for food, bathroom, drink, etc. 
• Be nice to gate agents and hotel clerks. They can reward you or be less than helpful depending on how you treat them. Chances are, the problem you have is not their fault, so look at them as an ally, not the object of your frustration. 
• As much as possible, concentrate flights and hotel chain stays to maximize loyalty points and perks, even if it costs a little more in the short term. Airlines are starting to really crack down on the un-loyal traveler: flights for no points, pay for seats, pay for checked bags, pay for changes, etc. Loyalty pays (at least so far) in terms of better seat options, free baggage check, priority in upgrades and cancelled flights, flight rewards, customer service numbers, etc.). 
• Though I break this rule on the time because I'm trying to squeeze so many places into one trip: Try to stay in the same hotel/location for at least two nights (allowing for potentially three days of exploration). Less than this and you'll feel like all you do is re-pack your bags every 18 hours or so. Even better, spend a week or more in one "hub" location and take day trips requiring no more than an hour or two each way by car or train. 

]]>Fri, 26 Jan 2024 06:00:00 GMThttp://trendwolf.org/trendwolftravels/seven-perfect-days-in-arizonaMy wife chose Arizona for her milestone birthday celebration in January, and wanted not only to go somewhere warmer, but also to include our two adult children, so here is what we chose to do - part of the time with them, and part of the time just the two of us. There were too many hikes and museums to choose from, so here is a curated selection to save a lot of research time and toiling, with a focus on the Tucson and Phoenix areas. 
     Day 1: Flew into Phoenix and checked into the charming Hermosa Inn, a boutique, historic adobe-style hotel in the heart of Paradise Valley. After settling in, we had lunch in the tree-shed courtyard at Lon's at the Hermosa Inn, the hotel's acclaimed restaurant. In the afternoon, we took a self-guided audio tour of nearby Taliesin West, Frank Lloyd Wright's famous winter home and studio, to learn about his architectural principles and vision. Next, we drove around Old Town Scottsdale and poked into some shops. Honestly, it felt a little seedy and touristy, so unless you're really curious, relaxing at the hotel or biking on the nearby trails would be time better spent.
     We finished the day touring around the iconic Arizona Biltmore Hotel, and learning about its connection to Wright and his style. Then we sat outside under a headlamp enjoying dinner at Renata's Hearth, the Biltmore's signature restaurant, which was a little price-inflated but still very enjoyable.
     Day 2: Reluctantly we departed the relaxing and well-landscaped Hermosa Inn and drove south to Tucson, but not before enjoying a scenic outdoor brunch at the exclusive and nicely renovated Wrigley Mansion (which is a private club that can be joined for a small fee). We checked into another star-studded hotel, the Hacienda del Sol Guest Ranch Resort, passing reluctantly on the chance to explore the nearby Biosphere 2 research facility, a storied 3.14-acre glass science research enclosure that simulates Earth's environments, but was once to be an attempt at simulating off-planet living for future space travelers.
     In the evening, we drove into Tucson's historic downtown district to dine at Maynards Market & Kitchen before rushing off for live jazz at the swanky Century Room in the historic Hotel Congress, to enjoy craft cocktails and local artists. Again, we appreciated the history here and efforts to revive this area, but we were a little surprised at the overall seediness (sorry!) of the city overall, which is a stark contrast to all the raves our friends have given over the years about going to Tucson. My impression is that because the surrounding area has great golf courses, resorts and hilltop homes with scenic views, it is the "area" that people are raving about and returning to, versus the city itself, which has some good restaurants, but seems to be suffering economically. 
     Days 3-4: After treatments at Hacienda's spa, we were ready to spend two full days exploring Tucson's surrounding landscape, mixing driving and hiking through the towering saguaro cacti of Saguaro National Park, which runs west, south and east of the city. If you want to see where countless Hollywood westerns have been filmed over the decade, you can stop by the Tombstone Historic Town and pay a fee to peek inside for yourself.
      One morning we drove down near the border to the historic artist's colony known as Tubac, where there are numerous shops featuring original art and high-quality jewelry. On the way back, we stopped at the Titan Missile Museum to relive the 80s Cold War of our teen years. It's impressive for its preservation not only of the facilities themselves, but the fact it still houses the only (disarmed) Titan missile available for public view.
     We also stopped by the centuries-old Mission San Xavier del Bac, known as the "White Dove of the Desert" for its beautiful white stucco facade. For meals, we sampled regional fare at local favorites like the casual Brother John's BBQ and had to dine at the original downtown location of El Charro Cafe, birthplace of the chimichanga. 
     Day 5: We had planned to enjoy a brunch at the Tohonol Chol botanical gardens, or walk around the Desert Museum, but it was drizzling out, so instead we headed north to check in to our vacation rental we picked in Fountain Hills, just east of Phoenix, and go grocery shopping in anticipation of our sons' arrivals. We had dinner downtown at Wren & Wolf, a contemporary restaurant in downtown Phoenix heavy with wolf themes and big city vibes, followed by craft cocktails at the chic White Rabbit bar after their flights arrived.
     Days 6-7: Over the next two days, we explored the scenic trails of the Phoenix mountain preserves by bike and by foot, hiking Piestewa Peak and the Cholla Trail up Camelback Mountain, a very rigorous hike. On Airbnb, I found guides who provided equipment and custom touring of the Scottsdale Sonoran preserve that provided scenic views and a good workout. At some point, we picked up lunch at the Farm at South Mountain, and also recovered from our biking event by purchasing a day pass for the Spa at the Hyatt Regency Scottsdale, which we highly recommend!
      We also stopped by the vibrant arts districts of Grand Avenue and Roosevelt Row, exploring local galleries, boutiques, and testing our family's skills at the Puzzle Effect escape room. The birthday highlight was the private Italian chef's dinner (reserved on Airbnb), prepared at our Airbnb rental, to save driving and cooking effort. On our last day, we had some time to kill before hopping on an afternoon flight, so we reserved a table at the Phoenician and enjoyed a great view at an table where we watched the hotel's Master Falconer work tirelessly to deter birds from overtaking the outdoor restaurant. 
     My wife and I mostly like to take it slow, shopping and museum hopping, while enjoying views and anticipating our next meal on our vacations. But with our boys, we are willing to take it up a notch, and pack the day with outdoor and indoor activities that focus a little more on beverages than food. Arizona provided the perfect mix of cultural immersion, outdoor adventure, and quality time with loved ones – a wonderful way to celebrate my wife's 60th birthday.]]>Mon, 03 Apr 2023 05:00:00 GMThttp://trendwolf.org/trendwolftravels/three-perfect-days-in-new-orleans   ​New Orleans is a city of culture, history, and fun, but unfortunately tends to be known more for "fun" and attracts more than its share of people looking to get sloshed on Bourbon Street or press together for Mardi Gras.
     My wife and I flew down in late March, in between crowded and before the hot weather sets in, and spent three relaxing days exploring its sights, sounds, and flavors with my friends. Like many urban areas hit hard by economic shutdowns and violence during Covid, I was saddened to learn that even locals we a little leary about walking the streets due to the increase in crime. But though the Vieux Carre looked a little more "vieux" than it had on my previous visit, we felt safe and enjoyed the weather and going to some new places. Here’s what we did and what we loved.
Day 1: A World War II Museum and a Live Music Pub Crawl
We started our day with a quick breakfast at the new Virgin Hotel (a fun and trendy place to stay, if you've never been to one), before heading to the National WWII Museum, which we'd never been to before. This museum is huge and impressive, with exhibits covering every aspect of the war, from the home front to the battlefront. We learned a lot about the history and the heroes of WWII, and saw some amazing artifacts and vehicles. The experience is fascinating, but also leaves you with a heavy weight, thinking all of the loss and sacrifice around the world at the time, fighting territorial ambitions of powerful leaders.
     For lunch, we ate at Herbsaint Bar & Restaurant, a cozy spot with a French-inspired menu. We shared some delicious dishes like shrimp and grits, duck confit, and roasted chicken. The service was friendly and attentive, and the atmosphere was relaxed and elegant. We strolled the streets, making our way to Elizabeth St. Cafe at Hotel St. Vincent, a chic bar with a tropical vibe in a recently restored old hotel space. We enjoyed some cocktails and snacks on the patio, surrounded by lush plants and colorful decor. The drinks were refreshing and creative, like the Hibiscus Margarita and the Coconut Mojito.
     For dinner, we went to Meril, one of Emeril Lagasse's newer restaurants that I chose because my wife had never been to one. It was full of noisy business groups, tourists with kids and people celebrating a birthday there so they could get the special cotton candy and fountain sparkler dessert. Afterwards, we joined a live music pub crawl hosted by Quay (on AirBnB Experiences), a local musician and guide. Our hostess took us to some of the more seedy but fun, off-the-beaten path bars east and north of Esplanade Ave. on Frenchman St., where we listened to different genres of music, from jazz to blues to rock. We met some friendly locals and other travelers, and danced in the street to the music inside some of the more crowded places. Some of the highlights were Dragon’s Den, where we saw a funky brass band; Maison, where we watched a soulful singer; and Blue Nile, where we grooved to a reggae band.

Day 2: A Brunch with Peacocks and a Scavenger Hunt on Magazine Street
     We woke up late and hungry, so we headed to Peacock Room at Hotel Fontenac for brunch. This place is stunning, with a glass ceiling, chandeliers, and peacocks roaming around. The food was equally impressive, with dishes like eggs Benedict, French toast, and shrimp and grits. We also had some mimosas and Bloody Marys to start the day right.
     After brunch, we took an Uber to Magazine Street, a long stretch of shops, cafes, galleries, and boutiques. We walked, shopped and ate along the way at Shaya, Riverboat Coffee, Coquette, and Saint John. For dinner, we had a reservation at Restaurant August, one of the finest restaurants in the city. The chef is John Besh, a famous New Orleans native who creates modern dishes with local ingredients. We opted for the tasting menu with wine pairings, which was a culinary adventure. Some of the dishes we had were oysters with caviar, foie gras with figs, lamb with eggplant, and chocolate cake with caramel.
     After dinner, we were on our way to Arnaud’s Jazz Bistro, a historic landmark that dates back to 1918. But an Uber driver gave us a tip that John Marsalis of the Marsalis brothers, would be playing at the Ponchatrain Hotel's bar that night. So we snagged a table for no cover (typical in New Orleans, surprisingly) in the tiny moody bar that has a classy and cozy ambiance with small tables and dim lighting. Too good! 

Day 3: A Tour of the French Quarter and a Visit to City Park
     We started our last day with brunch at a favorite indulgent bakery spot from my pre-Covid visit, Willa Jean. We had their signature dishes like the giant banana bread, fried chicken with tabasoo honey, and a token "healthy" grain boal with fancy grains and vegetables. There was no room left for the multi-layered coconut cake.
     After brunch, we walked the French Quarter, looking for special "foodie" landmarks that offer famous sandwiches and pralines in search of the best-of, conspicuously avoiding Bourbon Street. We then took a quick Uber to City Park, a large and beautiful park with many attractions and activities that feels completely different and remote from the rest of the city, except for the Cafe du Mondo location that is so quick and easy to get into versus the French Quarter version. We walked to the sculpture garden, where we saw some amazing artworks by local and international artists, such as a giant spider, a flying horse, and a twisted tree. We also explored the botanical garden, where we admired the variety and beauty of the plants and flowers, such as roses, orchids, and cacti inside the glass conservatory and other interesting buildings. 
     For happy hour, we went to Restaurant R’evolution, a sophisticated, luxurious restaurant with a creative menu and a stunning bar. We had some cocktails and appetizers, particularly the unique though costly (less so at happy hour) Caviar Flight, served with impeccable and attentive hospitality. For dinner, we had a reservation at Bayona, a cozy restaurant with a Mediterranean-inspired menu that's been a staple for decades. We shared some dishes like the smoked duck salad, the grilled lamb loin, the seared scallops, and the chocolate hazelnut cake. The food was delicious and satisfying, and the service was warm and attentive.
     Up early the next day for a direct (!) flight home to northwest Arkansas on JetBlue for less per ticket than any of our meals during our visit. ]]>Mon, 03 Oct 2022 05:00:00 GMThttp://trendwolf.org/trendwolftravels/8-perfect-days-in-central-valley-wine-country
 
        Central Valley in California, is an established - but still "emerging" wine lover’s paradise made somewhat more famous outside of in the early-2000s art-film "Sideways," where Paul Giamatti's character extols the virtues of pinot noir while trashing merlot, and changing wine preferences and sales for a generation, if not permanently.
     But few people can actually name where the movie takes place (answer: Solvang, about 20 minutes north of Santa Barbara). And it's just the beginning of a wine trail that runs for hundreds of miles and arguably has more wineries and vineyards to explore up through and beyond Paso Robles, than Napa and Sonoma combined. We spent a week with friends, driving from Santa Barbara to Paso Robles in late September, relaxing and easily booking (thanks to Tock) and enjoying a carefully selected group of wineries and food in the region. Here’s what we did and what we loved.
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Day 1: Exploring Santa Barbara and the Funk Zone
     We flew into Santa Barbara Airport and rented a car from Hertz. Our friends opted for a direct flight from Chicago to LAX, which is an option. But checking out a car and driving from that area cost them the entire day in extra driving and traffic, while we took a connecting flight from northwest Arkansas through Dallas, and arrived early enough to go to lunch in town.
     We checked in to our boutique Bungalow-style hotel, Upham Hotel & Cottages, a charming and historic property with cozy rooms and a lovely garden. We then walked through the main street to Presidio / El Paseo, a historic district with some wine tasting rooms. We chose to visit Happy Canyon and Jamie Slone, two wineries that specialize in Bordeaux and Rhone varietals. We enjoyed their wines and learned about their stories and labels.
For dinner, we had a reservation at La Paloma Cafe, a new restaurant that serves Mexican cuisine with a modern twist. We had some delicious dishes like ceviche, enchiladas, and mole poblano. Back at the room we enjoyed some varieties of baklava we'd picked up at a Turkish boutique bakery in town. 

​Day 2: Brunch at The Lark and More Wine Tasting in the Funk Zone
     We started our day with brunch at The Lark, a popular restaurant that serves seasonal and local dishes. We had some amazing items like ricotta pancakes, smoked salmon toast, and fried chicken sandwich. The portions were generous and the flavors were incredible. After brunch, we walked around the Funk Zone, a hip area with art galleries, breweries, and more wine tasting rooms.
     We visited Fess Parker, Fox Wine, Santa Barbara Wine Collective, Margerum, and Sanguis, tasting some different wines from different regions and producers, such as Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Syrah, and Grenache. We also had a fun Rhone blending experience at Margerum, where we got to create our own wine blend with different grapes.
     For dinner, we had a reservation at Loquita, a Spanish restaurant that serves tapas and paella. We shared tasty dishes like croquetas, patatas bravas, gambas al ajillo, and paella mixta. The food was fun and flavorful, and the sangria refreshing.

Day 3: Driving to Paso Robles via Santa Ynez and Santa Maria
     We checked out of our hotel and drove toward Paso Robles. Along the way though, we stopped at some wineries in Santa Ynez and Santa Maria.
Our first stop was Gainey in Santa Ynez, a family-owned winery that makes estate-grown wines. We had a reservation for a tasting on their beautiful patio overlooking the vineyards. We tried some of their wines like Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon. They also offered us some charcuterie to pair with the wines. The atmosphere was great, though it is clear that they are accustomed to large groups including wedding parties. 
     Our next stop was Blair Fox Cellars in Los Olivos, a small winery that makes handcrafted wines from organic grapes. We didn’t need a reservation, so we just walked in and tasted some of their wines like Viognier, Petite Sirah, and Syrah. The staff was friendly and knowledgeable, and the wines were delicious and balanced. What the place lacked in inspiring views like those at Gainey, it made up for with its unique collection of wines. This is where I became a Syrah convert, and willingly joined their wine club (though I promised to keep my limit on this trip to three). 
     For lunch, we had a reservation at Bell’s in Los Alamos, an uber-trendy, rustic French bistro that serves classic dishes with a Californian touch. We had some mouthwatering food like steak frites and moules frites. The service was attentive and the atmosphere cozy and chic. After lunch, we visited Dovecote in Los Alamos, a boutique winery that makes small-batch wines from organic grapes. We had an appointment with Kristen, the owner and winemaker, who gave us a tour and a tasting of her wines. We loved her wines like Grenache Blanc, Grenache Noir, and Mourvedre. She was very passionate and friendly, and shared with us her story and philosophy, along with one of our best views of the trip next to a pond and vineyards. Our friends had already joined three wineries since yesterday, and we hadn't even made it to Paso Robles yet. 
     We arrived at our hotel, Allegretto Vineyard Resort, a grand and luxurious, if a bit gaudy resort with an Italian-inspired design just at the edge of town. We checked in and relaxed in our spacious room with a fireplace and a balcony view.
For dinner, we ate at Les Petits Canailles, a French restaurant that serves farm-to-table dishes, like foie gras terrine, duck confit, and creme brulee. The atmosphere was very lively and casual.

Day 4: Visiting San Luis Obispo and Edna Valley
     We started our day with breakfast at our hotel, which had a buffet with a variety of options. We had some eggs, bacon, toast, fruit, and coffee. The food was fresh and tasty, and the dining room was bright and spacious. After breakfast, we drove to San Luis Obispo and Edna Valley, two areas with some great wineries and vineyards. We visited Saucelito Canyon Vineyard, Edna Valley Vineyard, Verdad / Lindquist Family Wines, and Ancient Peaks. Saucelito Canyon Vineyard is a family-owned winery that specializes in Zinfandel, but had a whole bunch of unique blends like "Muchacho" and "Field Blend." We had a reservation for a tasting on their deck overlooking the canyon. They also offered us some cheese and crackers to go with the wines.
    Edna Valley Vineyard is a well-known winery just down the street from Saucelito Canyon, that makes cool-climate wines. We had a reservation for a tasting on their patio with a cheese and bread plate. We tried some of their wines like Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Sauvignon. They also gave us a complimentary glass of sparkling wine to celebrate our trip! This place is grand, modern and elegant, and the servers are handpicked for their beauty and grace. It was hard to resist joining this winery that has now been absorbed by E&J Gallo, since the wines were good and well priced, but we were on a mission to search out still-small brands to ship home. 
     Verdad/Lindquist Family Wines is a small winery with a tasting room in San Luis Obispo (you can fly into this airport too, if Santa Barbara is too far from Paso Robles) that makes organic and biodynamic wines. We had an appointment with Mark, the owner and winemaker, who gave us a tasting of his wines. We loved his wines like Albarino, Tempranillo, and Syrah. He was very friendly and informative, and shared with us his passion and vision.
     Ancient Peaks is another unique winery that grows grapes on ancient volcanic soils. We had a reservation for a tasting on their lawn with a view of the mountains. We sampled some of their wines like Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, and Petite Sirah. They also had some food trucks on site that served burgers, tacos, and pizza. For dinner, we had a reservation at Fish Gaucho, a Mexican restaurant that serves fresh and flavorful dishes. We had some amazing food like ceviche, fish tacos, and carne asada. The drinks were also great, like the margaritas, the sangria, and the tequila flights.

Day 5: Visiting Cambria, San Simeon, and Adelaida
We started the day heading west to Cambria, a charming town on the coast, stopping along the way to visit Stolo and Cutruzzola, two wineries that make cool-climate wines. We tasted some of their wines like Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, and Pinot Noir.  For lunch, we had a reservation at Hearst Ranch in San Simeon, a winery that is part of the Hearst Castle estate. We had a tasting of their wines like Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, and Malbec. They also offered us some charcuterie that we bought from a grocery store to enjoy on the patio, while we enjoyed their beautiful views of the ocean and the hills, where we saw a family of whales breaching in the bay in front of us.
     After lunch, we drove to Adelaida, a district with some high-elevation vineyards just west of Paso Robles. We visited Adelaida Vineyards and Daou Family Estates, two wineries that make premium wines from estate-grown grapes. We had a reservation for a tasting at each winery, and tried some of their wines like Viognier, Zinfandel, and Cabernet Sauvignon. They also had some stunning views of the mountains and the valleys, particularly Daou, who charges twice the going rate in the area for the view...
     For dinner, we had a reservation at Ember, a celebrated wood-fired restaurant that serves seasonal and local dishes. We had some fantastic food like wood-roasted oysters, grilled octopus, and smoked pork chop. The atmosphere is super-casual and cosy. I love it that most places let you bring wine from the vineyards you visit, for a modest corking fee.

Day 6: Visiting Paso Robles and Surrounding Area
     The ladies enjoyed the hotel's lavish buffet again, and after breakfast, we drove to Paso Robles and surrounding area, where we visited some more wineries. We visited our in-laws, the Glunz Family, who took over Greg Norman's defunct property and continues to add new varieties to their mix, which includes fun pre-bottled white and red sangrias, and wintery Glogg, which can be heated and enjoyed on a cold day.
     We also squeezed in Ecluse, Dresser by Gelfand, and Mystic Hills. Ecluse is a boutique winery that makes limited-production wines from estate-grown grapes. We had a reservation for a barrel room tasting, where we sampled some of their wines like Chardonnay, Syrah, and Zinfandel. They also showed us their barrels and their cellar, and gave us a bubbly "fresh press" of grapes that had been fermenting for just a few days off the vine. 
     Dresser by Gelfand is a small winery that makes big reds from Rhone and Bordeaux varietals. We had an appointment for a tasting, where we tried some of their wines like Viognier, Mourvedre, and Cabernet Sauvignon. They also offered us some cheese and crackers to go with the wines. Mystic Hills is a winery that makes Bordeaux-style wines from organic grapes. We had an appointment for a tasting, where we tasted some of their wines like Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. They also gave us some directions to find their location, which was hidden in the hills.
     For dinner, we had a reservation at Ox + Anchor, a steakhouse restaurant that serves prime cuts and seafood dishes. We had some amazing food like oysters, ribeye steak, and lobster tail. The drinks (beyond wine for a change) were also great, like the martinis and the whiskey flights.

Day 7: Driving back towards Solvang via Morro Bay and Lompoc
     We checked out of our hotel and drove to Solvang, our final destination. Along the way, we stopped at some wineries in Morro Bay and Lompoc. Our first stop was Chateau Margene in Morro Bay, a winery that specializes in Cabernet Sauvignon. We didn’t need a reservation, so we just walked in and tasted some of their wines like Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Meritage. They also had some beautiful views of the bay and the rock. Our next stop was D’Alfonso Curran in Lompoc, a winery that makes wines from different regions and varietals. We had an email confirmation for a tasting, where we tried some of their wines like Pinot Grigio, Sangiovese and Syrah. They also had some interesting labels and stories behind their wines.
     We arrived at our hotel, M Solvang, a kitschy-stylish hotel with comfortable rooms and a convenient location. We checked in and relaxed in our room with a fireplace and a balcony. For dinner, we had a reservation at Coast Range & Vaquero Bar, a new restaurant that serves American cuisine with a southwestern flair. We had some delicious food like smoked trout dip, grilled salmon, and braised short ribs. 

Day 8: Visiting Solvang and Foley Estates
For our last day we drove into Solvang to visit Rideau and Foley Estates Vineyard.
Rideau is a winery that makes wines from Rhone varietals. We had a reservation for a tasting on their patio with a view of the vineyards. We tasted some of their wines like Malbec, Viognier, and Syrah. They also had some live music and a food truck on site that served tacos, burritos, and nachos. Foley Estates Vineyard is a winery that makes cool-climate wines from estate-grown grapes. We had a reservation for a tasting on their lawn with a view of the mountains. We sampled some of their wines like Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Merlot. They also had some cheese and crackers to go with the wines.
     We ended our trip with a toast to Solvang, a town that charmed us with its Danish style, culture, and hospitality. We had to cut the trip short so we can’t wait to go back!]]>