8 Perfect Days in Central Valley Wine Country

 
        Central Valley in California, is an established - but still "emerging" wine lover’s paradise made somewhat more famous outside of in the early-2000s art-film "Sideways," where Paul Giamatti's character extols the virtues of pinot noir while trashing merlot, and changing wine preferences and sales for a generation, if not permanently.
     But few people can actually name where the movie takes place (answer: Solvang, about 20 minutes north of Santa Barbara). And it's just the beginning of a wine trail that runs for hundreds of miles and arguably has more wineries and vineyards to explore up through and beyond Paso Robles, than Napa and Sonoma combined. We spent a week with friends, driving from Santa Barbara to Paso Robles in late September, relaxing and easily booking (thanks to Tock) and enjoying a carefully selected group of wineries and food in the region. Here’s what we did and what we loved.
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Day 1: Exploring Santa Barbara and the Funk Zone
     We flew into Santa Barbara Airport and rented a car from Hertz. Our friends opted for a direct flight from Chicago to LAX, which is an option. But checking out a car and driving from that area cost them the entire day in extra driving and traffic, while we took a connecting flight from northwest Arkansas through Dallas, and arrived early enough to go to lunch in town.
     We checked in to our boutique Bungalow-style hotel, Upham Hotel & Cottages, a charming and historic property with cozy rooms and a lovely garden. We then walked through the main street to Presidio / El Paseo, a historic district with some wine tasting rooms. We chose to visit Happy Canyon and Jamie Slone, two wineries that specialize in Bordeaux and Rhone varietals. We enjoyed their wines and learned about their stories and labels.
For dinner, we had a reservation at La Paloma Cafe, a new restaurant that serves Mexican cuisine with a modern twist. We had some delicious dishes like ceviche, enchiladas, and mole poblano. Back at the room we enjoyed some varieties of baklava we'd picked up at a Turkish boutique bakery in town. 

​Day 2: Brunch at The Lark and More Wine Tasting in the Funk Zone
     We started our day with brunch at The Lark, a popular restaurant that serves seasonal and local dishes. We had some amazing items like ricotta pancakes, smoked salmon toast, and fried chicken sandwich. The portions were generous and the flavors were incredible. After brunch, we walked around the Funk Zone, a hip area with art galleries, breweries, and more wine tasting rooms.
     We visited Fess Parker, Fox Wine, Santa Barbara Wine Collective, Margerum, and Sanguis, tasting some different wines from different regions and producers, such as Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Syrah, and Grenache. We also had a fun Rhone blending experience at Margerum, where we got to create our own wine blend with different grapes.
     For dinner, we had a reservation at Loquita, a Spanish restaurant that serves tapas and paella. We shared tasty dishes like croquetas, patatas bravas, gambas al ajillo, and paella mixta. The food was fun and flavorful, and the sangria refreshing.

Day 3: Driving to Paso Robles via Santa Ynez and Santa Maria
     We checked out of our hotel and drove toward Paso Robles. Along the way though, we stopped at some wineries in Santa Ynez and Santa Maria.
Our first stop was Gainey in Santa Ynez, a family-owned winery that makes estate-grown wines. We had a reservation for a tasting on their beautiful patio overlooking the vineyards. We tried some of their wines like Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon. They also offered us some charcuterie to pair with the wines. The atmosphere was great, though it is clear that they are accustomed to large groups including wedding parties. 
     Our next stop was Blair Fox Cellars in Los Olivos, a small winery that makes handcrafted wines from organic grapes. We didn’t need a reservation, so we just walked in and tasted some of their wines like Viognier, Petite Sirah, and Syrah. The staff was friendly and knowledgeable, and the wines were delicious and balanced. What the place lacked in inspiring views like those at Gainey, it made up for with its unique collection of wines. This is where I became a Syrah convert, and willingly joined their wine club (though I promised to keep my limit on this trip to three). 
     For lunch, we had a reservation at Bell’s in Los Alamos, an uber-trendy, rustic French bistro that serves classic dishes with a Californian touch. We had some mouthwatering food like steak frites and moules frites. The service was attentive and the atmosphere cozy and chic. After lunch, we visited Dovecote in Los Alamos, a boutique winery that makes small-batch wines from organic grapes. We had an appointment with Kristen, the owner and winemaker, who gave us a tour and a tasting of her wines. We loved her wines like Grenache Blanc, Grenache Noir, and Mourvedre. She was very passionate and friendly, and shared with us her story and philosophy, along with one of our best views of the trip next to a pond and vineyards. Our friends had already joined three wineries since yesterday, and we hadn't even made it to Paso Robles yet. 
     We arrived at our hotel, Allegretto Vineyard Resort, a grand and luxurious, if a bit gaudy resort with an Italian-inspired design just at the edge of town. We checked in and relaxed in our spacious room with a fireplace and a balcony view.
For dinner, we ate at Les Petits Canailles, a French restaurant that serves farm-to-table dishes, like foie gras terrine, duck confit, and creme brulee. The atmosphere was very lively and casual.

Day 4: Visiting San Luis Obispo and Edna Valley
     We started our day with breakfast at our hotel, which had a buffet with a variety of options. We had some eggs, bacon, toast, fruit, and coffee. The food was fresh and tasty, and the dining room was bright and spacious. After breakfast, we drove to San Luis Obispo and Edna Valley, two areas with some great wineries and vineyards. We visited Saucelito Canyon Vineyard, Edna Valley Vineyard, Verdad / Lindquist Family Wines, and Ancient Peaks. Saucelito Canyon Vineyard is a family-owned winery that specializes in Zinfandel, but had a whole bunch of unique blends like "Muchacho" and "Field Blend." We had a reservation for a tasting on their deck overlooking the canyon. They also offered us some cheese and crackers to go with the wines.
    Edna Valley Vineyard is a well-known winery just down the street from Saucelito Canyon, that makes cool-climate wines. We had a reservation for a tasting on their patio with a cheese and bread plate. We tried some of their wines like Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Sauvignon. They also gave us a complimentary glass of sparkling wine to celebrate our trip! This place is grand, modern and elegant, and the servers are handpicked for their beauty and grace. It was hard to resist joining this winery that has now been absorbed by E&J Gallo, since the wines were good and well priced, but we were on a mission to search out still-small brands to ship home. 
     Verdad/Lindquist Family Wines is a small winery with a tasting room in San Luis Obispo (you can fly into this airport too, if Santa Barbara is too far from Paso Robles) that makes organic and biodynamic wines. We had an appointment with Mark, the owner and winemaker, who gave us a tasting of his wines. We loved his wines like Albarino, Tempranillo, and Syrah. He was very friendly and informative, and shared with us his passion and vision.
     Ancient Peaks is another unique winery that grows grapes on ancient volcanic soils. We had a reservation for a tasting on their lawn with a view of the mountains. We sampled some of their wines like Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, and Petite Sirah. They also had some food trucks on site that served burgers, tacos, and pizza. For dinner, we had a reservation at Fish Gaucho, a Mexican restaurant that serves fresh and flavorful dishes. We had some amazing food like ceviche, fish tacos, and carne asada. The drinks were also great, like the margaritas, the sangria, and the tequila flights.

Day 5: Visiting Cambria, San Simeon, and Adelaida
We started the day heading west to Cambria, a charming town on the coast, stopping along the way to visit Stolo and Cutruzzola, two wineries that make cool-climate wines. We tasted some of their wines like Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, and Pinot Noir.  For lunch, we had a reservation at Hearst Ranch in San Simeon, a winery that is part of the Hearst Castle estate. We had a tasting of their wines like Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, and Malbec. They also offered us some charcuterie that we bought from a grocery store to enjoy on the patio, while we enjoyed their beautiful views of the ocean and the hills, where we saw a family of whales breaching in the bay in front of us.
     After lunch, we drove to Adelaida, a district with some high-elevation vineyards just west of Paso Robles. We visited Adelaida Vineyards and Daou Family Estates, two wineries that make premium wines from estate-grown grapes. We had a reservation for a tasting at each winery, and tried some of their wines like Viognier, Zinfandel, and Cabernet Sauvignon. They also had some stunning views of the mountains and the valleys, particularly Daou, who charges twice the going rate in the area for the view...
     For dinner, we had a reservation at Ember, a celebrated wood-fired restaurant that serves seasonal and local dishes. We had some fantastic food like wood-roasted oysters, grilled octopus, and smoked pork chop. The atmosphere is super-casual and cosy. I love it that most places let you bring wine from the vineyards you visit, for a modest corking fee.

Day 6: Visiting Paso Robles and Surrounding Area
     The ladies enjoyed the hotel's lavish buffet again, and after breakfast, we drove to Paso Robles and surrounding area, where we visited some more wineries. We visited our in-laws, the Glunz Family, who took over Greg Norman's defunct property and continues to add new varieties to their mix, which includes fun pre-bottled white and red sangrias, and wintery Glogg, which can be heated and enjoyed on a cold day.
     We also squeezed in Ecluse, Dresser by Gelfand, and Mystic Hills. Ecluse is a boutique winery that makes limited-production wines from estate-grown grapes. We had a reservation for a barrel room tasting, where we sampled some of their wines like Chardonnay, Syrah, and Zinfandel. They also showed us their barrels and their cellar, and gave us a bubbly "fresh press" of grapes that had been fermenting for just a few days off the vine. 
     Dresser by Gelfand is a small winery that makes big reds from Rhone and Bordeaux varietals. We had an appointment for a tasting, where we tried some of their wines like Viognier, Mourvedre, and Cabernet Sauvignon. They also offered us some cheese and crackers to go with the wines. Mystic Hills is a winery that makes Bordeaux-style wines from organic grapes. We had an appointment for a tasting, where we tasted some of their wines like Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. They also gave us some directions to find their location, which was hidden in the hills.
     For dinner, we had a reservation at Ox + Anchor, a steakhouse restaurant that serves prime cuts and seafood dishes. We had some amazing food like oysters, ribeye steak, and lobster tail. The drinks (beyond wine for a change) were also great, like the martinis and the whiskey flights.

Day 7: Driving back towards Solvang via Morro Bay and Lompoc
     We checked out of our hotel and drove to Solvang, our final destination. Along the way, we stopped at some wineries in Morro Bay and Lompoc. Our first stop was Chateau Margene in Morro Bay, a winery that specializes in Cabernet Sauvignon. We didn’t need a reservation, so we just walked in and tasted some of their wines like Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Meritage. They also had some beautiful views of the bay and the rock. Our next stop was D’Alfonso Curran in Lompoc, a winery that makes wines from different regions and varietals. We had an email confirmation for a tasting, where we tried some of their wines like Pinot Grigio, Sangiovese and Syrah. They also had some interesting labels and stories behind their wines.
     We arrived at our hotel, M Solvang, a kitschy-stylish hotel with comfortable rooms and a convenient location. We checked in and relaxed in our room with a fireplace and a balcony. For dinner, we had a reservation at Coast Range & Vaquero Bar, a new restaurant that serves American cuisine with a southwestern flair. We had some delicious food like smoked trout dip, grilled salmon, and braised short ribs. 

Day 8: Visiting Solvang and Foley Estates
For our last day we drove into Solvang to visit Rideau and Foley Estates Vineyard.
Rideau is a winery that makes wines from Rhone varietals. We had a reservation for a tasting on their patio with a view of the vineyards. We tasted some of their wines like Malbec, Viognier, and Syrah. They also had some live music and a food truck on site that served tacos, burritos, and nachos. Foley Estates Vineyard is a winery that makes cool-climate wines from estate-grown grapes. We had a reservation for a tasting on their lawn with a view of the mountains. We sampled some of their wines like Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Merlot. They also had some cheese and crackers to go with the wines.
     We ended our trip with a toast to Solvang, a town that charmed us with its Danish style, culture, and hospitality. We had to cut the trip short so we can’t wait to go back!